The minimalists of 1990s sported a
clean streamlined look with simple tailoring and a neutral colour palette.
Plain white cotton t-shirts became staple wardrobe pieces. The minimalist
palette consisted of black, brown, olive green, beige, navy and white. Sheer
and shiny fabrics featured strongly throughout minimalist collection to
compensate for the lack of colour. The growth of female professionals boosted the demand for minimalism as women wanted strong corporate styles.
Meanwhile Grunge enthusiasts sported ripped
jeans, threadbare flannel skirts, bobbly cardigans, converse trainers and Doc
Marten boots. Courtney Love the girlfriend of Nirvana front man Kurt Cobain
became a princess of grunge with her tattered dresses and ripped stockings. This
redefined femininity of the 90s was brought to the catwalk by Marc Jacobs for
Perry Ellis which gained him Womenswear Designer of the Year. The look was
unkempt and laid back.
Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis |
Deconstruction
brought about the use of synthetic materials such as paper and non-woven
fabrics in clothing production. The process of production and techniques were
left deliberately exposed such as linings and raw edges. Zips were placed in
unusual places and garments were frayed in a dramatic decoding of construction
methods. Deconstruction was a satirical take on the fashion 'trend' and aimed to
break through the boundaries of style. Emphasis was placed on different
components of garments rather than the finished look itself. Martin Margiela
was the 'King of Deconstruction' showing his collections in cemeteries and fire
stations. He made use of alternative materials such as bottle tops, plastics, coat hangers and
broken porcelain. Rei Kawakubo was also a deconstruction genius working for
Commes des Garcons. She played with form and silhouette creating pieces that
were asymmetric, frayed, unfinished or crumpled. Fashion was being used as a
tool of expression and designers wanted to challenge themselves technically.