The 'New Look' of the 1950s brought
back the classic female form. Cinched in waistlines and full skirts with petticoats
shaped the silhouette of the time. Skirts were made from simple fabric like
gingham and printed cotton for daytime and for night-time they featured layers
of chiffon or rayon in bold colours like baby blue and lime green. Petticoats
were stiffened with starch or a sugar solution to create form and movement
under the circle skirts. For a more glamorous look petticoats were made using
nylon tulle which gave a softer effect for eveningwear. In contrast to the
voluminous circle skirt was the hobble or pencil skirt. A slim straight skirt
that featured the tiny waistline but no gathers or pleats, just a simple slit
in the back to allow for movement.
Roger Vivier Stilettos |
Nylon
stockings were returned to woman's drawers having been diverted in production
to assist the war effort. Their demand sky rocketed and riots were caused when
producers held sales. Woman no longer needed to mimic the leg seam using eye-liner and had their trusty companions back again. The female leg was also to reach
new heights in the form of the stiletto heel.
Invented by French shoe designer Roger Vivier the stiletto heel complimented
the feminine fashion silhouette perfectly. Ladies were offered lessons in how
to walk properly in these steel-strengthened pencil-thin heels.
The freedom of the post-war era stimulated
the emerging Youth culture. Teenagers no longer felt the need to do as their
parents did and set their own agenda bringing style with them. America led the
rest of the teenage world with two dominant figures emerging: the Preppies and
the Greasers. A Preppy teen's wardrobe featured Capri pants or pedal pushers,
scoop neck blouses, tight sweaters or cardigans and three quarter length
sleeved blouses with a neckerchief. The greasers sported denim jeans and
leather biker jackets a symbol of rebellion that terrified the older
generation. Music and film greatly influenced the fashion of teen culture and
the fabrics used in clothing production.
In 1952 acrylic was introduced to clothing production world. Alongside Nylon it was marketed as a 'miracle' fabric that was crease-proof, shrink proof and quick drying. Meanwhile 'drip-dry' nylon and Dacron could retain head-set pleats after washing and became a sensation. Along came Polyester in 1953 offering its ability to keep its shape with an anti-wrinkle quality. The domestic female was given an easier washing load with the introduction of synthetic fabric production and the fashion world never looked back.
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