Sunday, 16 November 2014

1970s Innovators: Clark,Birtwell and Halston

This is who I mentioned in class: Ossie Clark, Celia BirtwellOssie Clark and Celia Birtwell: Husband and Wife duo Clark and Birtwell brought the art and fashion world together in the 1970s. Due to their divorce in 1974 their career was short lived and often unappreciated but this pair were at the heart of the 70s bohemian movement. As an artist Celia Birtwell would produce textile designs inspired by art deco floral patterns and Clark would then create garments from them. He perfected the midi and maxi lengths of the time producing Birtwell's artwork in evening dresses, as sleeve features or as overdresses. Clark's free flowing cutting style was developed from his fascination with the 1930s bias cut which he reintroduced to the fashion world. The Hippie look could be achieved with his puffed out sleeves, narrow cuffs and chiffon trouser suits. Birtwell's bold patterns and colours created unique pieces of fashion artwork. The amalgamation of exquisite tailoring and unique artistic ability created iconic 70s style.
ossie clark

1969 Ossie Clark fashion
Roy Halston Frowick: Capitulated to stardom when he designed Jackie Kennedy's iconic pill box hat for John's inauguration. (He reportedly fitted it to himself because they wore the same hat size). Made simple chic.Roy Halston: Halston constructed the slender sex appeal of 70s fashion. He aimed to promote a modern silhouette by introducing the use of synthetic fabrics in high end fashion. Beginning as a Milliner in Bergdorf and Goodman catering to the rich and famous Halston established a star studded fashion flock. His sheep included Bianca Jagger, Liza Minnelli and Elizabeth Taylor . He was a permanent fixture on the disco scene during the 70s spending time with his clients in Studio 54. Halston became the U.S's first star dresser, he possessed an ability to tend to women's fashion needs, emphasizing their assets and masking weaknesses. He released collections that featured casual cashmere dresses and slender pantsuits. Perhaps his greatest success was his development of the shirt dress using Ultrasuede a synthetic mix of polyester and polyurethane. He preserved the luxurious simplicity of 1970s fashion. Halston,1970s

Thursday, 13 November 2014

1970s: Style Features and Fabrics

Another group of fashion anarchists in the 70s was Punks.  Rebellion was at the very heart of the punk trend. Invented by Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood the pair were inspired by elements of bondage gear like rubber and leather studs which they sold from their shop 'SEX' in the Kings Road Emporium. The pair spawned Kings Road as a fashion capital in its own right. Along with the traditional  components of bondage they combined the look with muslin and cotton t-shirts, vests and drain pipe jeans which were de-constructed and ripped then pinned back together to form a new silhouette. Tartan and leather were key elements of the trend. Malcolm McLaren began managing the Sex Pistols which combined with Westwood's fashion revolution secured Punk as not only a trend but a lifestyle during the 1970s. The Punk trend was a shock to the system of the fashion world and created a tsunami of trends featuring punk elements and fabrics which was seen in the A/W 2013 Tartan trend. Disobedience was the height of fashion.
 Sid Vicious & Johnny Rotten - Sex Pistols - 80s inspiration for CATs Vintage - 1980s style - fashion

Across the Atlantic something big was dancing its way around New York.  The Disco look was sophisticated and alternative.  The Disco crowd were disaffected by the destructive forces of crime and drugs devastating the streets of New York and partied harder in west 54th Street's Studio 54. To make the exclusive guest list the disco look was essential.  Leotards, metallic vests and dresses, high waisted spandex trousers, jumpsuits, footless tights with leg warmers and anything sequinned were staple wardrobe pieces. Preferred fabrics were satin, lamé, polyester, velour, Lurex and spandex. Bianca Jagger became an icon of the disco trend. The slim line silhouette of disco was achieved using fabrics like silk jersey and crepe de chine which fell from the body in fluid shapes. Disco was the last iconic look of the 1970s and brought the most revolutionary decade in fashion to a close.