Another group of fashion anarchists
in the 70s was Punks. Rebellion was at
the very heart of the punk trend. Invented by Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne
Westwood the pair were inspired by elements of bondage gear like rubber and leather
studs which they sold from their shop 'SEX' in the Kings Road Emporium. The
pair spawned Kings Road as a fashion capital in its own right. Along with the traditional components of bondage they combined the look
with muslin and cotton t-shirts, vests and drain pipe jeans which were de-constructed and ripped then pinned back together to form a new silhouette. Tartan and leather were
key elements of the trend. Malcolm McLaren began managing the Sex Pistols which combined with Westwood's fashion revolution secured Punk as not
only a trend but a lifestyle during the 1970s. The Punk trend was a shock to the
system of the fashion world and created a tsunami of trends featuring punk
elements and fabrics which was seen in the A/W 2013 Tartan trend. Disobedience
was the height of fashion.
Across the
Atlantic something big was dancing its way around New York. The Disco look was sophisticated and
alternative. The Disco crowd were
disaffected by the destructive forces of crime and drugs devastating the
streets of New York and partied harder in west 54th Street's Studio 54. To make
the exclusive guest list the disco look was essential. Leotards, metallic vests and dresses, high
waisted spandex trousers, jumpsuits, footless tights with leg warmers and
anything sequinned were staple wardrobe pieces. Preferred fabrics were satin,
lamé, polyester, velour, Lurex and spandex. Bianca Jagger became an icon of the
disco trend. The slim line silhouette of disco was achieved using fabrics like
silk jersey and crepe de chine which fell from the body in fluid shapes. Disco
was the last iconic look of the 1970s and brought the most revolutionary decade
in fashion to a close.
Ossie Clark and Celia
Birtwell: Husband
and Wife duo Clark and Birtwell brought the art and fashion world together in
the 1970s. Due to their divorce in 1974 their career was short lived and often unappreciated
but this pair were at the heart of the 70s bohemian movement. As an artist
Celia Birtwell would produce textile designs inspired by art deco floral
patterns and Clark would then create garments from them. He perfected the midi
and maxi lengths of the time producing Birtwell's artwork in evening dresses, as
sleeve features or as overdresses. Clark's free flowing cutting style was
developed from his fascination with the 1930s bias cut which he reintroduced to
the fashion world. The Hippie look could be achieved with his puffed out sleeves, narrow cuffs and chiffon trouser suits. Birtwell's bold patterns and
colours created unique pieces of fashion artwork. The amalgamation of exquisite
tailoring and unique artistic ability created iconic 70s style.
Roy Halston: Halston constructed the slender sex
appeal of 70s fashion. He aimed to promote a modern silhouette by introducing
the use of synthetic fabrics in high end fashion. Beginning as a Milliner in
Bergdorf and Goodman catering to the rich and famous Halston established a star
studded fashion flock. His sheep included Bianca Jagger, Liza Minnelli and
Elizabeth Taylor . He was a permanent fixture on the disco scene during the 70s
spending time with his clients in Studio 54. Halston became the U.S's first
star dresser, he possessed an ability to tend to women's fashion needs,
emphasizing their assets and masking weaknesses. He released collections that
featured casual cashmere dresses and slender pantsuits. Perhaps his greatest
success was his development of the shirt dress using Ultrasuede a synthetic mix
of polyester and polyurethane. He preserved the luxurious simplicity of 1970s
fashion. 
