1930s Innovators: Vionnet and Schiaparelli

Madeleine Vionnet: Known as the 'Queen of the bias cut' Vionnet 
reinvented the female form to combine effortless elegance with natural comfort. She had an architectural approach to fashion and discovered that cutting fabric crossways at 45 degrees to the direction of the thread the fabric would flow delicately around the body and follow the body's movements. Vionnet remarked herself that "When a woman smiles, her dress must smile with her". She abhorred the seasonal nature of trends and instead drew inspiration from Grecian legends and folklore which was translated through her free flowing goddess forms. To achieve her classical look Vionnet commissioned fabrics two yards wider than usual. Her preferred fabrics were crepe de chine, charmeuse and silk muslin. Her sculpting qualities were manifested in her use of small dolls to create her designs as oppose to sketches on paper. She preferred to be called a dressmaker than a fashion designer and although she revolutionised the female form she is a relatively disregarded figure in fashion. In comparison to other female designers Madeleine Vionnet is greatly unappreciated in her role as a 20th century fashion innovator. 

 
Elsa Schiaparelli: Schiaparelli changed the face of fashion by transforming pieces of artwork in to fashion. She blurred the lines between the two industries and presented herself as one of the most extravagant designers of the 20th century. She worked closely with Dadaist and Surrealist artists and experimented with synthetic materials such as latex, cellophane and glass fibre. She was the first designer to use a zipper in an haute couture dress in 1935. Although she was never qualified as a designer her collections were popularised as innovative and unique displays of textile creativity. Schiaparelli viewed fashion as an art form in its own right and inventive names for specific colours which featured in her collection which we use everyday including shocking pink, royal blue, wheat yellow and ice blue. She produced high waist, broad shouldered silhouettes in fabrics exclusively designed for her by artists such as Dalí and Picasso. After the war however Schiaparelli failed to get her career running again and fashion rejected her quirky style.

                                     

1930s: Style features and fabrics

Style Features and fabrics

Jean Harlow an original diva

Women drifted and floated through the 1930s in bias-cut dresses and flared skirts with layers of delicate chiffon, lace and lightweight voile. Narrow waists replaced the drop waistline of the 1920's and skirts reached mid-calf length. Tippets (little capes) accented the shoulders of blouses and dresses produced in lace or appliquéd with ribbons and ruffles. Layers were used to create movement in the figure, while belts produced in the same fabric accentuated the figure in dresses. Skin tight gowns were also introduced and semi-opaque fabrics with risqué glimpses of camisole or lace. Fur also added luxury to outfits of the time with capes, coats and wraps made from ermine fox and mink being worn day and night.

Harpers Bazaar 1933

Science was constantly finding alternative ways of producing fabric which led to the first commercial production of rayon in the 1930s. Rayon was an artificial silk fabric which created the possibility of mass producing evening wear for retail purposes. Beading and embroidery was a key feature in evening wear allowing women to embody the Hollywood dream. The introduction of the zip fastening began to replace traditional button closings in many areas of fashion.

Daywear became more functional and less restrictive. Designers compensated for a potential loss of female form by creating a more hourglass silhouette. Necklines were lowered and waistlines were heightened on blouses in flamboyant floral and geometric patterns. Day suits produced in wool jersey gave woman a free flowing form. An increased interest in fitness created a strong market for sportswear and swimwear. The idea of a healthy mind being a healthy body encouraged women to invest in outdoor attire. Knitted bathing suits and beach wraps were essential pieces in a summer wardrobe. In keeping with the essence of female freedom Lingerie moved in favour of comfortable bras and girdles made from washable Lastex fabric replacing the rigidity of the corset.

5 Decades of Fashion: To be continued

Over the next few weeks I'll be featuring chapters from an essay I wrote from college about 5 Decades of fashion. It was a huge piece of work but I'm delighted I put in the effort and have the piece for the future. I chose to concentrate on the 1930s, 1950s, 1970s, 1990s and the 2000s. i Decided to mix up the decades rather than going chronologically. Each decade will feature an overview, style features, fabrics and key designers of the time. So here's a snip-it from my 1930s chapter, hope you enjoy and make sure to check back for the rest of the story!

Ro x 

1930s Fashion

The 1930s was a time for retreat in both the economic and the fashion world. After the crash of the 1920s and a fall from opulence, fashion returned to a more classically feminine style and silhouette. The devastation caused by the stock market crash caused designers to economise and supply for a money conscience female market.  However this didn't mean style was sacrificed. Both day and nightwear exuded a new found glamour and sex appeal for women. The 1930s was also the Golden age of Cinema with stars like Jean Harlow and Greta Garbo epitomising the first incarnation of Hollywood Glamour. There was great enthusiasm for health and fitness saturating the fashion and lifestyle of the decade. In 1930 Prunella Stack founded the Women's League of Health and Beauty in Britain making fashionable sportswear a must-have. The 1930s female was a lady of leisure and practicality.  While an economic depression was in effect on both sides of the Atlantic, events like tea dances gave women an opportunity to showcase the flirtatious and romantic style of the era. Women embraced fashion and liberated themselves of their financial woes with style. 

                             

S/S15: Here comes the Bride

Getting back to normality and preparing myself for another college year. Feeling very motivated about pushing myself this year and establishing a lasting brand. I definitely need to focus more on creating a signature style and design. I'm absolutely loving the current bridal designer trends for next S/S, there's tulle and texture everywhere. I've never been a big fan of full lace gowns I prefer a tailored look using trims and layers to create drama. Here's some pictures from Vera Wang's seasonal collection, so many beautiful pieces with clean simple designs. I've been swooning over Monique Lhuillier's use of colour and volume, incredible stuff. My forecast for S/S: Amazing structural pieces allowing the nature of the fabric to speak for itself and many many beautiful brides. Que the bridal chorus,
Ro x

                                        Vera Wang Spring 2015

                                   Vera Wang Spring 2015

                       Vera Wang Spring 2015 Showcase

               Monique Lhuillier Spring 2015

 

                Monique Lhuillier Spring 2015

              Monique Lhuillier Spring 2015

Curly Sue

There's nothing better than getting your hair done and it's even more satisfying when it's free. I got my boyfriend to set my hair for me the other night and it's the best it's ever been done. Basically it's like getting a perm done but using mouse and water instead of perm lotion. 

I have a bad relationship with perms ever since I was 17, myself and my friends thought it would be a great idea to buy a home perm kit having in clue what a perm actually does. The result was my hair got burnt and fused together so I had to have it all chopped off. It makes for a good story and we all laugh about it now but even though I'd always had short hair it was horrible having that little. I comforted myself by adopting the name Rochelle and telling everyone I had to get my weave cut out, laughter is the best medicine I suppose. 

Anyway I have hair now so I'll get back to the present. So after all the rollers go in you use a dryer to heat the hair and set it in place (I'm very impatient so I slept with them in). Then in the morning I woke up looking like the star of Annie and feeling fabulous. Throughout the day the curls drop and you can pull them down so they're no so afro-like. I usually clip up the sides of my hair so it's not too curly around my face and voila a natural looking head of curls. Honestly don't know how people manage curly hair all the time tho, I have a greater appreciation of the struggle.

Ro x

This is on the way to the event and the headpiece I made for it👑

Back when Rochelle was around rocking the red hair 

And I do my little turn on the catwalk

Feeing delighted after seeing my dress on the catwalk last night regardless of the slight zip fiasco. My voting campaign is in full swing and I need all my frockwatchers to vote and share my design. There was some amazing collections displayed last night from students of the Univerity of Ulster and Belfast metropolitan , really impressed by the standard. That includes the work of the other contestants in the competition their designs looked absolutely fabulous, the competition is really stiff! Here's a pic of my dress on the catwalk and a reminder of where its come from, Vote for Ro!!!!http://weddingjournalshow.com/wj-young-designer-year/

When life hands you lemons

Finally getting a chance to relax and recover from my crazy week. Putting the dress in the bag I was thinking did I actually manage to do that? It's such a huge achievement for me after just one year in college. This summer I've managed to figure out the fashion direction I want to go in and feel more determined than ever to establish my own label and career. I'm so thankful I took part in this competition and pushed myself to finish the task even if though I don't have the full set of skills behind me. I feel really hopeful about the coming college year and I'm preparing to push myself even further, determination is key .

Ro x 

      

Reposting my favourite image of the dress, such a beautiful back view